This is one of the best collections I have seen in a while, and that is saying something. I know I might be displaying a great deal of hubris in saying this, but I feel like in my humble opinion designers often get too gimmicky and overdesign stuff. If you aren't blind, you can see that this isn't at all the case here.
With a palette of pure white, I guess its pretty easy to venture into futuristic day-spa worker territory. Here this look is even slightly encouraged (see Victoriana-maid-ish collars), but with enough sophisticated irony to not have the wearer be mistaken for a character in Poirot.
The sheer tartan is spectacular. I kinda missed it since it was on the D&G runway a few years back. It is surely the best way of making dowdy = sexy and awesome, and its a bit of a nod toward the fetish theme on a lot of this season's runways, albeit an minimalistic, chic, rather virtuous nod.
Might I mention the white pieces again? I'll allow that the whole white thing has potential for being a little boring. BUT. See that hint of sheer in the blouses and tops? See that layering? Kinda dangerous (in a perfectly rad way), no? Kinda...... fetishistic. Very..... interesting. Decidedly devoid of ennui. So, to summarize the epitome of awesome in white vestments:
carefully measured irony + simplicity + beautiful craftsmanship/tailoring + sternness + the barest hint of sexuality + a teeny bit of menswear = a recipe for AWESOME!!!!!!!
I guess I should be a little more blasé about this whole affair, to match the mood of the actual collection, but I'm finding this very hard. And I also realize this is in sharp contrast to my previous post. But in my opinion beauty and depravity go hand in hand.
To begin with, I apologize in advance for the abundance of pictures. They're just....... so beautiful. *Dashes away tears in the Jane Austen manner, with monogrammed handkerchief*
Where to begin. Because I've been working on a slightly dull-as-all-hell math project lately, let me put it to y'all in one simple-as-all-hell formula.
skinny,tight-fitting, long-sleeved shirts + colourful/graphic prints + classic Burberry-style sex-bombery = I WANT IT
This one especially. Oh, Jourdan Dunn, I am turquoise with envy..... (oh I kill myself with my wit.) Seriously, though, who knew you could make a trench coat so..... tight? Like I said, pure and unadulterated sex-bombery, cinched in with a nigh-on fetishistic belt. Subtle, but "packs a punch", a phrase I despise under normal circumstances. But here, I must admit, it is quite apt.
And the hats are just the cherry on top, almost literally. They are on the edge of superfluous -- if Christopher Bailey had decided to make them even a modicum more colourful they could have thrown the whole thing off -- but in muted shades they just make the whole shebang more quirky (I hate that word, but for want of a better one...) and oh-I-just-played-doubles-with-my-pal-Yasmin Le Bon-it-was-divine-but-I-gotta-go-the Vaccines-invited-me-to-go-have-drinks-backstage-with-them. Like a boss.
Again with the graphic prints -- they are everywhere, and I'm sure as hell not complaining. Anything that makes an icky autumn in London seem more like a safari in Central Africa with Garance Doré sounds A-OK.