This is one of the best collections I have seen in a while, and that is saying something. I know I might be displaying a great deal of hubris in saying this, but I feel like in my humble opinion designers often get too gimmicky and overdesign stuff. If you aren't blind, you can see that this isn't at all the case here.
With a palette of pure white, I guess its pretty easy to venture into futuristic day-spa worker territory. Here this look is even slightly encouraged (see Victoriana-maid-ish collars), but with enough sophisticated irony to not have the wearer be mistaken for a character in Poirot.
The sheer tartan is spectacular. I kinda missed it since it was on the D&G runway a few years back. It is surely the best way of making dowdy = sexy and awesome, and its a bit of a nod toward the fetish theme on a lot of this season's runways, albeit an minimalistic, chic, rather virtuous nod.
Might I mention the white pieces again? I'll allow that the whole white thing has potential for being a little boring. BUT. See that hint of sheer in the blouses and tops? See that layering? Kinda dangerous (in a perfectly rad way), no? Kinda...... fetishistic. Very..... interesting. Decidedly devoid of ennui. So, to summarize the epitome of awesome in white vestments:
carefully measured irony + simplicity + beautiful craftsmanship/tailoring + sternness + the barest hint of sexuality + a teeny bit of menswear = a recipe for AWESOME!!!!!!!
I guess I should be a little more blasé about this whole affair, to match the mood of the actual collection, but I'm finding this very hard. And I also realize this is in sharp contrast to my previous post. But in my opinion beauty and depravity go hand in hand.