Suited and Booted

Hello readers,

Here are my very favourite resort pieces so far. And seriously, I'm not just doing them because Tavi did.

SONIA RYKIEL

This isn't my very favourite collection but it is pretty swell, kids. Mostly I loved the pillbox hats -- I have a thing for hats, especially pillbox hats. But I hate it when they lose their shape. For example, I went to Paris a few weeks ago and I packed a vintage pink quilted pillbox beret with a matching hatpin (!!!!!!). And then I ended up not being able to wear it because it was all squished and I hadn't brought my non-existent portable steamer.
So, always bring a mini-steamer. And to go back to the subject at hand... it is a very wearable, very chic, very French, very Sonia collection. And that's pretty much all one can say on the subject.

PROENZA SCHOULER

When I first heard about Proenza Schouler, I was reading a copy of German Glamour. I was eight and to my inferior mind the clothes were boring. Sorry 'bout that, Jack and Lazaro. You'll be happy to know that I have completely reevaluated my hypothesis over the last few years. I mean, this is like, slightly-dorky-in-a-cool-way 80s schoolgirl goes on safari and marries an Arabian prince. I love the cuts of the shorts and how very un-Topshop they are. (I'm kinda starting to despise Topshop because they are so darn repetitive with their clothes and also their jeans always have the same cut. Still semi-stylish, but.. well... yawn.) And the blazers are. A. M. A. Z. I. N. G. You could just kinda through them over pajamas and look instantly cool, especially the whitey-silver and black one.

BALENCIAGA

Again. This is why today's post is entitled 'Suited and Booted'. I love suits 'cause you can through them out and look instantly put-together. Nicholas Ghesquiere even manages to make them playful with eyeshadow and dizzyingly printed blouses. See, this is the kind of thing that makes me jealous. Why the hell didn't I think of that?? ARGHHHHHHHHH.

Whatever. And to finish off, lets have some good ol'fashioned sleek, chich Burberry Prorsum magic. Because I need a trench coat, and I can totally afford this stuff. Totally.

Stuff I love right now (in pictures)

(!!!!!!!!!!)

OK, so this was gonna be just in pictures. But I lied because most of the stuff in here is just too awesome not to talk about. Plus, because of an upcoming piano exam i have been way too stressed out to blog and I had forgotten how fun it is once you, y'know, get into it.

I really hope I never have to use that phrase again.

So lets start with the Bottega Veneta. Because it embodies everything I look for in fashion. It is unmistakeably high fashion, and yet you could totally wear any of the pieces out (well, maybe with a little layering in the bathing suit pieces? Unless you're Lady Gaga, in which case fine, do your thing). Another thing that's really cool is that the collection has a hint of the 50s in it.I mean, come on. The yellow ruffled dress? How could you not notice? God, what is wrong with you?

(Insert smiley face here)

Anyhoo, when you look at the detailing around the neckline and the collar (well, really just the shape of it) there is definitely something futuristic about the pieces. Its also revealed in the all-white uniform of a lot of the models and some of the pieces feature asymmetrical wrap-like cuts (the belted hotpants/tankini-thing combo. Which I love, don't get me wrong just because I don't really... know..... what to call it)
And, man, will you look at the corseting? How do they do it?? HOW?!?!? How do they incorporate so many individual themes into a single collection? See, this is the thing I'm struggling with. I try to keep my sketches more or less based on the same themes so they form a kind of "collection", but then they always end up being all over the place and one is a Victorian ballgown and the other is an all-white bodysuit. But anyway. Here are my themes:

-Sporty/Scuba (neoprene and stuff.. I LOVE NEOPRENE)
-Menswear ('cause you can dress it up or down and wear it anywhere)
-50s/early 60s

And this is why I love these collections so much. And I am not copying them, so don't give me that look. That evil cyber-look you're giving me. Yeah, that one. Right THERE.

Moving right along, yeah, I picked those three collections because they were my absolute favourites among spring/summer collections this year. What I wouldn't give to be able to afford one of those stunning tankini things. NOTHING, I tell you. NOTHING IS THE ANSWER. And the Proenza Schouler is cool... the stretchy tops are a little like last season's Versace minidresses. Needless to say, I adored them.

Rodarte, Lady G and Joy Division are on my magic list because they simply rock.
And thanks, Style.com, for the photos.
And in a couple days (or weeks -- who knows?) I will post the sketches that I mentioned earlier... the ones that don't really go together, but I think they're still kinda good, if I do say so myself. I'll work on that. And I need to get some nice red lipstick that doesn't look too gaudy.
(ChellBellz, if you're listening, this is your time to shine.)

Until next time.
EVC

PS. WAIT!! WAAITT!!!! I forgot something!




Ok, BYE.

A HISTORY OF FASHION: 1800s

Hola,
I am going through an 19th century fashion phase and though you might like to know. Just scroll down....
1810s
So this is the stuff from the 1810s and in case you are already bored, might I add that the more interesting stuff comes in the later decades. For those of you who have read or seed 'Emma' by Jane Austen, you will probably remember seeing these kind of dresses. In my opinion they are not nearly over-the-top enough. They are just empire-waisted bags. But I guess that all the drama lies in those wicked cool hats. Damn, I was born in the wrong century.

1820sNow skirts started to grow more voluminous (finally), with added ruffles, poufs and draping. The feminine shape was exaggerated with sneakily cantilevered corsets and bodices became more fitted to show off curves. Also, although the classic bonnet shape was still popular, newer, more elaborate hats began to take their place. With more people traveling, hats took on a turban shape borrowed from the Middle-East and were often adorned with feathers and shimmering brooches. And now, I'm not copy-and-pasting from Wikipedia. I just read actual books. Wide-brimmed, floppy hats were also popular.

1830sAh, so this is where it gets more interesting. We are getting huge skirts and sleeves held up with vast wire contraptions hidden under the yards of petticoats and silk, and also ginormous hats. There's nothing much else to say.

Well, I have to go now... so I will continue this post at a later date. Also I have a dinner party to host.

EVC

It's Gonna Be a Dark Summer

Let's let the clothes speak for themselves.

ALEXANDER WANG

These were just the first droplets of the wave of chic-grungy 90s girl fashions that washed over runways this season. I was pretty surprised to see that the designers had gone dark for summer (yes, I know it is technically a/w, but who can wait three months to wear these beauties?), and I was kinda looking forward to all the typical brights and prints the season usually has to offer, but it seems the sartorial world has nimbly avoided carrying on the stereotypes that summer should be bright and poppy. I'm sure there are other designers that have done the bright summer thing, but I'm having a dark moment here.By the way, doesn't Karlie look adorable in the first shot? I love that girl.
Lets do some Proenza Schouler -- but I couldn't help adding in last season's collection, 'cause its one of my favorites ever.

If I could pick any collection in the fashion world that I could own, it would have to be the Spring 10 Proenza Schouler.... guess what, my favorite color is aquamarine, and I love the fitted long sleeved tops -- they remind me of happier days spent kayaking, back when I could walk and run properly, and Stinson Beach back in California. We used to torture crabs there. Ah, blissful youth.But back to the more up-to-date Schouler collection -- I love the way it retains the same essence that Jack and Lazaro always have in their collection, but I would definitely say the PS girl has gone north for the winter -- to New York, in fact. I would know -- I was just there a few weeks ago, where I bought (and lost, and promptly re-commissioned Mom's friend Jan to buy -- thanks Jan!) this fantastic ring.

See how it sparkles and gleams. Anyway, I am loving the tiny pleats - I have always loved pleats. They just add an instant dose of put-togetherness to an outfit, or you can make them Vivienne Westwood punk if you have plaid stuff. Coincidentally, I recently finished a peplum jacket in the exact shade of green the models are wearing. Wow, I'm psychic.

And now to pay a visit to Richard Chai, fashion's current tomboy.
Well, tomboy isn't really the right word. He is a guy, but his womens' collections are very gamine and very, very cool. See for yourself, if you haven't already.

See, this is why I am so obsessed with fashion. There are some garments that, if combined perfectly, form an awesome look. And then there are garments which form a look no matter how you throw them together. These are some rare specimens of the latter, and are also very New York. Usually I like to see at least some form of high heel in a collection, but I am loving the boots, and even if he had included heels, the styling would have been perfection. Really, how can you go wrong with pieces that are superbly made, classy and cool? The answer is you can't. You simply CAN'T.
Did I mention how much I loved the hair in Alexander Wang? Its just so....... shiny!! And beautiful!! And perfect!! There really is no other way to describe it. Gee, I'm so eloquent... not.
And on to my next topic: Cynthia Rowley for Roxy. Finally, something that I can wear on land and in my kayak. Just LOOK.

I just... love it. To quote Cynthia, "We wanted this collection to have everything you need for a weekend -- both on and off the beach -- while still making it fit into your canvas duffel bag, so you can just toss everything in and go." Truer words have never been spoken. The collection also includes round sunglasses, neoprene ballet flats and surf-inspired board shorts that can be paired with anything from heels to Kelly bags.

So that's my inspiration for summer vacation -- New York, tomboy, surfing, tight/brights, also a dark palette for the city, and late 90s...

Must go and study -- it's end-of-year exam season.
EC

BB GOES RETRO

"Why Don't You Love Me" - Beyoncé from Beyoncé on Vimeo.

Finally, the video for one of my very favorite songs by one of my very favorite artists: none other than Beyoncé Knowles, also known as BB Homemaker, her new stage persona.I dunno, guys. I think I sense a little GaGa-inspired undercurrent here -- sorry B, not that we're doubting your creativity one little bit, but this is almost as -- what's the word -- eloquent as one of Lady G's (long-winded) videos, which (in case you have been living under a rock) actually tell the story of the murderous Lady being trucked off to prison, where she faces shemale guards, b*tch fights galore and a definite skepticism of her wacky outfits (no surprise there -- but she didn't, and probably won't ever, pay her haters any heed; there are just as many people who love her outfits, par exemple me). Until she finally gets bailed out by (you guessed it) her partner in crime Beyoncé.... but you probably know that, unless you have been living in a Buddhist monastery for the last few months.
I wonder if the Dalai Lama knows who Lady Gaga is. Hmmf. This is going to bother me for the next week.But anyway, it looks like B has taken a page out of G's book, which doesn't bother me in the slightest. I love Lady Gaga's videos -- they're like my own music, dance, fashion and attitude-infused Agatha Christie novel (who I happened to be distantly related to. Very distantly).Still, Beyoncé's outfits can't begin to compete with Lady G's, although they are cute...
But seriously. Who can compete with a gal who lets herself be seen buttless skirts?

And have you seen the shoes? I mean, THE SHOES OF THE YEAR?

THEY ARE FABULOUS. And that, my friends, is the understatement of the year, to go with the shoes of the year.
Sure looks like she had no trouble finding an only slightly sane cobbler after McQueen passed away. I must find out who made them. I'll do that on my quest to find out if the Dalai Lama know you-know-who. Terry de Havilland? No, he still has an ounce of class, probably more than that... these are absolutely, deeply, deliciously over-the-top. I dare you to wear them with Fair-Isle knit, Gaga. Do it. Give the fashion nobility and '90s prepsters a heart attack.
But you know her. She will never wear them again. Maybe she'll give them to me! (NB I wear a size 8, just so you know, G...)
But don't get me wrong. I would wear the sparkly stuff (because I have the mentality of a magpie) but maybe I would leave out all the hanging-out body parts. NOT JUDGING!! I LOVE YOU GAGA!!!!

Speaking of which, it has recently come to my attention that there is a new book on young lady's ettiquette, entitled, rather fittingly, "Classy".

And if that's you in the yellow microminidress, I really recommend you buy this book. Also, you should get it if you like Uggs. Seriously. Its this or electroshock therapy. What kind of brainless person made it OK to wear your slippers out? As soon as I start my design career, you will be bankrupt and your business will go belly-up once I knock some sense into these blindly following prep-schoolers I live among.
Derek Blasberg must see my worship of Lady G to be the utmost of blasphemy. Well, hell to you, but I like the book. It's very true -- in this era where every other 15-year-old boasts a fake bosom (and UGGS!!) and where people queue up to get their Katie Price literature, which can not even be classified as a suitable toilet-paper substitute. Where as all the common sense gone? 30+ years ago every girl was wishing they had Audrey Hepburn's charm, poise and unconventionality, nowadays I have seen girls skip to the section in Hello! or whatever which glorifies the extreme tackiness of Myleene Klass' pink minidress. I have no prejudice against pink minidresses in general, but just LOOK. And her antics, too.


Plus the gold necklace. PLEASE never pair hot pink with gold.

Well, if I say anymore, I may start rambling even more than I already am, so I bid you Adieu.
EC

Firebird

Hi.
Isn't it a coincidence that this is my favourite Alexander McQueen collection ever -- but its his last ever? Does that make me a bad person? Probably only if I ask Karl Lagerfeld to die. Anyway.


This reminds me of a skewed Jackson Pollock painting. However, the colours are reminiscent of the opulent court of Louis the Fourteenth -- gold and brocade prints. The cut, especially the shoulder piece, reminds me a bit of a Lanvin cocktail dress I saw once in a magazine -- not that I'm accusing you of plagiarizing, Mr. McQueen -- but the dizzying print and ruching are all McQueen. THE HEADDRESS IS AMAZING. I love it. Its like something a 17th century Lady Gaga would wear. ( Funny, if she would have existed then she would probably actually have been a Lady by status.)This piece reminds me of something a Tsarina would wear to the Brixton clubs. Look at those shoes. If the model ever got mugged in the street wearing those, I'd feel real bad for the mugger.
Whats weird is that when you look closely, you can see that the gold embroidery is actually oriental. Well, I hear you cry, So much for the Tsarina theory? No, I think it just goes to show how many facets this diamond of a design has, and how McQueen has managed to not make them mutually exclusive. Genius.
And there's that awesome headdress again. That would turn some heads if I wore it to the 3D showing of Alice in Wonderland I'm seeing today. Like, "Look, its and even madder Hatter!"
Or maybe even the rabbit.Wow, my friend Alice would love this -- I swear she should have been born in a Jane Austen novel. The sculpted bodice, the skirt (it reminds me kinda of a wilted Calla lily -- in a good way),
the thick collar and and the delicately puffed shoulders -- Emma Woodhouse would wear this to the theatre in Bangkok. Maybe minus the gold swimming cap.
And also, think she looks like butter wouldn't melt? Well don't look at her decolletée.Whoa, Calla lily skirt alert. This is even the same colour. LOOK HOW PRETTY IT IS. Not really something I would have expected from the British Bad Boy of Fashion, but it ticks all the McQueen boxes: a hypnotic print, an unusually structured shape, and a computerized, symmetrical bodice. I must say, this is the one which really won me over and convinced me that this is the most amazing collection EVER. That a designer with such a recognizable style could design something so unlike what he usually does -- in this case ruched and structured minidresses -- and yet so instantly recognizable as his work. Stunning.


AND LOOK, ITS THE AWESOME HEADDRESS!!!!!


If a Phoenix were reincarnated as a dress, this would be it. A form-fitting, elongated jacket made of golden feathers, and underneath that, a swinging, rustling mass of cream netting, shooting out like a plume of smoke embroidered with delicate gold thread? What more could a McQueen girl -- or even a McQueen Phoenix -- want? Just look at the collar. Something about that jacket reminds me of a knight in shining (gold) armour. The amazing thing about this combo is that it has so many influences. In the feathers, there is the unmistakable influence of nature, in the shoulders that of a modern business suit, in the fitted, long bodice that of a 1920s flapper outfit, complete with the headdress. The whole thing puts me in mind of Scarlett O'Hara in Gone with the Wind, after a Ball, wearing her boyfriend's jacket over her gown because she's cold.

Just pointing out the headdress. Again.

So, after reviewing these prime specimens and examples of McQueen-type genius, I have come to the following conclusion:
Designers, strive to be like McQueen in his creativity and his playfulness with materials, shapes and headdresses. I'm not saying copy his designs, but look to his archives for, well, not inspiration, but if you want pure fashion bliss, that is where you should look.
And for the rest of us, do not hesitate to claw your way to the front of the line to get your hands on one of the beauties. Amen.

To finish on a lighter note, here's the videos of the scary-looking YSL models I ranted about a few months ago.




I actually quite like the clothes -- just not the models faces.